Bitzbox Blog

Making Use of Space Marine Heads

Posted by Bitzbox

If you've visited the website frequently or ever looked to buy Space Marine Tactical parts you may notice that I have a huge surplus of space marine heads. This photos shows Head B and C from last week, before the recent restock. There's about 700 head B and over 100 head C roughly in this photo.

Space Marine Heads

I finally came up with an idea about how I can put them to good use: An Aegis Defense Line. The original idea was to make an Aegis Defense line for my Chaos Space Marines that consists of piles of dead Space Marines. The small parts of the aegis would be piles of space marine heads and spikes. I made a little tutorial showing how I made them.

First draw around a space piece of Aegis onto a piece of thick card

First draw around a space piece of Aegis onto a piece of thick card

... and cut it out

... and cut it out


Take some space marine heads and cut off the neck joints

Take some space marine heads and cut off the neck joints

Start gluing them to the card facing random directions to form your aegis shape

Start gluing them to the card facing random directions to form your aegis shape


Continue to pile them up to a height you are happy with

Continue to pile them up to a height you are happy with


You may wish to add a few heads inside behind the pile also

You may wish to add a few heads inside behind the pile also


Lastly I took this symbol from the Chaos Space Marine Defile and cut the spikes off

Lastly I took this symbol from the Chaos Space Marine Defiler and cut the spikes off

then just add the spikes where you like. It's as easy as that!

then just add the spikes where you like. It's as easy as that!


Filed under: Hobbying, Tutorials 2 Comments

An Old Rust Effect Tutorial I Found

Posted by Bitzbox

I was looking through some of my old 40K photos and found some step by step images from an old tutorial I did on making a rust/weathered paint effect for vehicles.

Start off by painting the colour you want to be showing through under the paint. Most commonly this would be bare metal or a rusty red colour which is what I've gone for here. I can't remember which colours I used exactly but a mix of red and brown is commonly used.


What you need to do next requires too items you wouldn't usually use when painting. These are salt and hair spray. Sprinkle salt randomly on to the model and then use the hair spray to hold it on.


Once this is dry you then paint the base coat for the model.


Once your base coat is dry you can then start to remove the salt from the model. This will then leave the rust colour showing through underneath. You may be required to use an old toothbrush and warm water to do this depending how easy the salt will come off.


Filed under: Painting, Tutorials 2 Comments

Conversions by Resin Forge – Horus Heresy Era counts as ‘Fabius Bile’

Posted by Bitzbox

countsas_fabius1 countsas_fabius2 countsas_fabius3


Hello everyone! Resin Forge here with the start of a series of guest posts., starting with a counts as 'Fabius Bile' for a Sons of Horus Heresy Era army. Before we begin, yes, the actual Fabius Bile was a member of the Emperor's Children but please keep in mind this is simply a character recreation set in the Horus Heresy time period, not an actual recreation of him during that period (although with shoulder pad swaps it could count as him very easily)

Lets jump right into what bits the conversion is made up of.



Right side - FW Mk2 Tank Commander head

Left side - FW Mk2 Apothecary head with the lens intact.

GS studs to connect the lens portion of the helmet.

FW Inquisitor Iron Halo

FW Inquisitor Lok Servo Skull Scribe Arms



FW Red Scorpion Magister Loth Honor Guard Torso

FW Apothecary Vial attached

FW Mk2 Backpack Fan Vent



FW Plague marine shoulder pad decaying head

FW Inquisitor Solomon Lok Data Servitor back module

GS Cables



FW Astral Claws Valthex Techmarine Backpack

FW Mk2 Apothecary Backpack Vials

Plastic Imperial Guard Servo Skull Half Halo

Mk2 Backpack Bottom Side Vents

Pewter Fabius Bile Backpack Mechanical Arms

Plastic Imperial Guard Vox Speaker

Finecast Dark Eldar Haemonculus IV Bag


Right Arm:

Mk2 Apothecary Arm

Mk2 Closed Assault Hand

Finecast Thunder Cannon Techmarine Staff

Finecast Thunder Cannon Techmarine Plasma Cutter

Pewter Inquisitor Servo Skull

Black Legion Pewter Shoulder Pad


Left Arm:

Mk4 Apothecary Arm

Mk4 Bolt Pistol

Finecast Thunder Cannon Techmarine Backpack Sensor

FW Inquisitor Solomon Lok Data Servitor cable connector

Black Legion Pewter Shoulder Pad



Pewter Iron Hands Bionic Legs



FW Angron Fallen Marine 40mm Base

2 Pewter Warhammer Fantasy Familiars

Plastic Imperial Guard Servo Skull

FW Titan Tech Priest Mechanical Servo Arm

FW Flamer Tank

FW Magister Loth Honor Guard Helmet


Where to begin..... I suppose its best to start in the same order as the parts are listed above.

1) The head is a combo of the 2 halves from the Mk2 Tank Commander head and the Mk2 Apothecary Heads with the Iron Halo attached to the back of it. The brown lens was added based on plastic rivets. The Lok Servo skull Scribe arms are attached to the lower half of the helmet before its glued on.

2) The torso is almost entirely based around the Loth Honor Guard torso with the Red Scorpion icon shaved off and replaced with the vent fan from a Mk2 backpack. The vial from the Apothecary set was then mounted on the right side of the breast, on top of a GS mount.

3) The belt items were taken from 2 bits. The first being a severed, decaying head taken from one of the FW Plague Marine shoulder pads and the second, coming from the Inquisitor Lok Data Servitors back module. It was carefully cut off and trimmed down to be a sort of scanning device.

4) The backpack is built around the Astral Claws Valthex Techmarine pack. The side mounts are cut down and replaced with the pewter Cogs that become the mounting for the Fabius Bile Mechanical arms. On the top, on both sides above the cogs and mechanical arms the small Mk2 backpack lower vents are added. The Mk2 Apothecary backpack vials are then mounted on the center with the plastic servo skull half halo cut and removed to be mounted onto them. Finally a single plastic brown rivet was added as a lens for the skull, creating a mini servo skull. On the rear of the backpack, the cut down Imperial Guard Vox Speaker was then mounted in the center with the Finecast Dark Eldar Haemonculus IV Bag mounted alongside of it with the hose connecting to the bottom of the speaker.

5) The right arm is built around the Mk2 Apothecary arm. Before anything was done the hand was removed and the shoulder mount was cut off to change the position of the arm. Once the arm was reglued to the shoulder, the Mk2 closed hand was then drilled out to allow the staff to fit in its grip. It was then mounted onto the arm. The staff itself is made up of the lower half of the techmarine staff with the plasma cutter barrel cut off and glued just above the hand. I did pin all of this to make to stable. The pewter servo skull was trimmed down to then fit on top of the plasma cutter barrel and coolant ribs. Once this was all done the shoulder pad was added.

6) The left arm is a bit easier then the right. Its almost entirely the Mk4 Apothecary arm. Only the hand was removed, a bolt pistol from the Mk4 Assault set was added. The front half of the bolt pistol was first cut off and the finecast techmarine sensor was added in its place. The small tip was cut off and replaced by the small data servitor cable connector to make a sort of needle launcher. Finally the shoulder pad was added.

7) The legs are simply the pewter Iron Hand legs with a slight bend to make them fit onto the fallen marine base.  A single GS cable was added to make both sides look similar.

8) The base is from the Primarch Angron. The floating Servo skull is a cut down plastic Imperial guard on with a Titan Tech Priest small servo arm added so it could be picking the geneseed from the corpse. A Magister Loth honor guard helmet was added to spice it up. The 2 familiars are simply picked from the Warhammer Fantasy Familiar blister. Slight reposing was done on the familiar in the front to be standing on the fallen marine. Finally 'Fabius' was pinned in place so that he could be stable and yet be removed for painting.


That's how he was created! If anyone has any questions at all, please do ask and ill be more then happy to help explain it better. This is my first tutorial so please forgive me if anything is confusing. And now with Bitzbox and Resin Forge teaming up, all of this conversion and future conversions can easily be built by you, the readers! Stay classey everyone and remember, support for your bitz suppliers means support for amazing conversions!

I will go ahead and leave you all with a teaser of the next Tutorial:



Simple Zombie Paint Scheme

Posted by Bitzbox

Mantic Kings of War Zombies as Plague Zombies

I've had a couple of requests asking how I painted my Mantic Zombies that I use for Plague Zombies in my Chaos army so I thought I would make a tutorial on how I painted them. As with most of my painting tutorials this is not meant to be golden demon winning (as I'm no where near that stage) but it is a good table top quality that you can also paint quickly and easily regardless of your skill level.

After giving the model a black undercoat it is then basecoated with a 70/30 mix of GW XV-88 and Vallejo GC Dead Flesh.


I then give the model a dry brush of pure Dead Flesh as well as paint any other details such as bits of bone, blood etc. The rags are painted with VGC Charred brown.


The entire model is when washed with GW Athonian Camoshade. This colour works excellently with the VGC dead flesh in my opinion.


I then paint the models base as well as highlighting the bone areas and painting the eyes.


Filed under: Tutorials No Comments

Making A Warhammer Gameboard on a Budget

Posted by Bitzbox

Using a green towel from the laundry cupboard may suffice, but it will always be just a towel. It wont add to the excitement of your battles or give you the satisfaction of knowing you created something that is truly yours and unique.

Once again I had little to no money for supplies, so all you see from here is what I had already, or what I got for very little money.


First of all you need your board, I had two 4ft x 2ft polystyrene boards left over from a previous project. Polystyrene is ideal, its sturdy, comes in various sizes and thickness, its cheap and its light. So no problem to move and store when not in use.



Its worth shopping around for bargains (pound shops are ideal). I found little trees that were to scale and they were only a pound each. I also had some green GW battlemat left over, so I scraped together a little hill, just for measuring purposes.



When it comes to designing your gameboard, you dont want to mark it out straight away onto the board. Its worth using a maths school book, drawing a few small scale gameboards then making a few different designs. Once your happy, then mark out your board. Try adding a few different features to your design. I went for a large forrest, large lake, pathway, small woods and a pond.



Once you have your board marked out, you can start painting. I used poster paint (cheap and lots of colours), but feel free to use any paint you wish. Some paints have chemicals that will melt your polystyrene though, so I suggest asking instore if the paint is safe to use. Make sure your painting area is clean and well ventilated. Take a moment to check your board to see if thats clean too. When its comes to painting, use a soft brush, and unless you want a dirty floor, put plenty of newspaper down to catch any drips.BILD0668

Appologies for poor picture.


Its really starting to take shape now. Once you have your board all painted, leave to dry. Use this time to gather supplies and decide what colour flocks you will use.

I decided to use green, brown and small stones for my pathway.

I also decided to make my own flock. All you need is very fine sawdust, poster paint, a mixing bowl, a fine sieve and a large tray to dry your flock on.

In the mixing bowl put a squirt of paint in, a touch of water and stir in your sawdust, adding more if needed.

When all the paint has been absorbed by the sawdust, leave to dry on a tray.

Once its dry, put it into the sieve and use a small bottle to squeeze it through.BILD0671



Once all the painted areas are dry, you can now flock your board.

Use watered down PVA glue, and an old brush. Dont glue the whole board, do a section at a time. I started on the pathway.


Once the pathway is complete, leave to dry. Then do the next section.


For flock that I made myself, I was rather pleased with the end result. Now all that is left, the green areas.


Here i used a mix of brown and green (I decided to call it Grown, grren and brown mixed and it has the effect of overgrown grass). The pond and lake I decided to leave blue.


And there you have it, an effective and cheap to make gameboard...and better to look at than a green towel.

Hope this gives you some ideas.


Filed under: Tutorials No Comments

How to Quickly and Easily Paint Plague Marines

Posted by Bitzbox

I've been playing Nurgle themed Chaos Space Marines since 3rd edition. I started collecting my current army in 5th edition and it was built around a core of plague marines and nurgle bikes. My new list since the 6th edition codex dropped still uses this core as well as some more nurgle related units, such as plague zombies. I wanted one of my havoc squads to match the Nurgle theme so I thought I would write a tutorial showing how I painted them. I use the same method for all my other Nurgle units such as Plague Marines and Nurgle bikes.

We start off with a white undercoat. I'm not a fan of white undercoats but for this colour scheme to work a white undercoat is needed. This is because of the next two steps. Firstly wash the model with Sepia. I use VGC Sepia but GW's Seraphim Sepia will do the trick. Once this is dry I apply another wash. This time VGC Black Green. I keep the sepia wash showing on parts of the weapons. I then paint the parts I want to be metal with Abaddon Black and then once that's dry I paint those parts with boltgun metal before using a Nuln oil wash. Some metal parts are also painted with a tin bitz drybrush to add variation. I paint all the piping with Bleached Bone. This is because I want it to look like maggots and it fits in well with the scheme. Finally other little details are painted and the models are based.

So there you have it. A very simple and quick colour scheme that looks good on the tabletop.


Warhammer Fantasy Gatehouse/Toll Gate

Posted by Bitzbox

Its a factor of many things...lack of don't like any of the scenery available...there has been a massive flood, everywhere is 20 feet under water and your now forced to live in a tree house...whatever the reason may be, don't panic, there are a number of items laying around the house that can be transformed into flowing rivers, craggy mountains, impassible terrain or even towering...towers.

With easy to understand step by step instructions, Ill talk you through making your very own Warhammer Fantasy Gatehouse/Tollgate.

Please keep in mind, to make it more fun and rewarding, you may want to use different resources. Have fun with it, because that's what its all about.

So, I guess i should begin at the beginning.

When I first got into the hobby, I was amazed by the scenery that was readily available, but disappointed at the cost. That's where it began...speaking of


Find a suitable sized box for your Gatehouse, I used an old cat food storage box ( 15 inches long and 8 inches high) wouldn't hurt to have a few more too. Ill make them into a simple but effective wall later on.

If the box needs to be tidied up, use masking tape as it can easily be painted over.


On the front and back of your taped up box, find the middle and mark out your doorway, I made mine 6 inches high and 5 inches wide (I wanted an imposing looking gateway).

You may like to have an arched gate, but i opted to mate it straight.


Using a modeling knife (be VERY careful), cut out your doorways and make sure to keep the bits you have just cut out.

Now you should have a clear way through the gatehouse.


Using the bits of cardboard you have just cut out, use them (each on one side) to cover up the gap on the inside so your not left with a hollow looking structure. Secure it in place with pva glue or masking tape. If there are any gaps, use however much cardboard required to tidy it up.


Now for the effect of the walls, I opted for polystyrene ceiling tiles, as these come in various sizes and textures...and there very cheap.

Lay down your gatehouse on the tiles (doing it this way makes a more exact outline), and mark out. I only opted to have the crenelations only on the front (I guess I wont be attacked from the rear lol)

So you need to mark out two sides, one front with crenelations and one for the rear.

Using a hot wire cutter/modeling knife (be VERY careful) cut out the doorways on the front and back, then cut out your crenelations.

TIP: if you use masking tape and mark out where needs to be cut, you will have a sturdy guide and it will look neater.


Once you have all your tiles cut out and ready, spread pva glue over the tile (best to do it one by one) and place the glued tiles onto your cardboard structure. Once you have all four sides covered, secure in place with masking tape. Then leave to dry overnight, it might be worth putting a couple of heavy books on top (lay your gatehouse on its front) to make sure the glue will bond strongly.


Once the glue has dried, carefully remove the masking tape and inspect to see if all the glue has dried.

To make the door/gate, use thicker card and make 'hinges' by getting a bit of masking tape and folding it in half (so it sticks to itself). Make sure you leave a bit of tape exposed so you can glue it in place. This tape will be covered up soon.

Now cut out some rectangular pieces of card (cereal boxes are the best) in various sizes, all depending if you want neat looking brickwork, or some large bricks and some small. Also you will need some larger pieces of card bricks to go around the gate, covering your gate hinges. Water down some pva and using an old paintbrush, spread it over the top of your gatehouse (where your models will stand lol). Then simply arrange your card bricks how ever you wish, do the same for around the gate (front and back) To add an extra bit of detail, cover up the corners with large/small bricks  and put a few random bricks around your gatehouse. If you like, add some tiles to the crenelations to make it look a bit neater.

Once your happy with your work, leave to dry.


Now all that's left to do is paint your gatehouse, feel free to add extra details. Windows, ledges or anything that comes to mind. Once your gatehouse is painted, you may like to leave it as is, or stick it on a base to make it more secure.

Hope this was useful. Have fun with it, that's what the hobbies all about.


Filed under: Tutorials No Comments

Making A Warhammer 40,000 City Board – Part 1

Posted by Bitzbox

In the first of this series about how I made a city board and terrain for Warhammer 40,000 I am going to show you how I made the actual board itself. I started with a 8'x4' bit of MDF. I have had this bit of MDF for at least 10 years and I've always gamed on it. It used to just be painted green, then it had static grass card sheets glues to it which I have removed due to wear and tear. I started it's makeover by painting it with textured paint. This paint was made from regular cream silk wall paint mixed with a lot of builders sand until it was a consistency that I was happy with. I then painted the whole board with it, being careful to give it an even coat.

You could of course mix this with paint to the exact shade you wish to paint your board with. I didn't do this as the textured paint I use is something I have had for a while and have used on various projects. So naturally the next step is to then paint it the colour I wanted. I decided to go with a fairly dark grey. Again this was made using regular silk paint. This time I mixed white with some black poster paint. It's certainly been quite handy to have lots of left over paint from when I painted the rooms in my house which I can use for this project. You could of course just use cheap poster paint or something similar for this. Again I gave it an even coat. I painted on the first coat with a brush and then gave it another coat using a roller.

As the board is 8'x4' and most games are played on a 6'x'4 I painted on a board edge. I wanted to do something different so I painted a hazard stripe. This was done by using masking tape to mask off the areas and then paint on the yellow, followed by the black. I used GW Aveland Sunset and Game Color Black to paint this. In the past I've had trouble setting up deployment areas for the Vanguard Strike mission. I thought it would be a very good idea to paint on diagonal lines for this so I only have to measure once and then they are always there. Again I used masking take for this. The lines were painted with Stegadon Scale Green from GW.

So that's the start of the board. The next few posts will look at some of the terrain.


Pre Heresy Imperial Fist Test Model

Posted by Bitzbox

I've been wanting to do a Pre Heresy army for quite some time now and after trying to decide which chapter to do I have come to the conclusion that Imperial Fists would be the ones for me. This is mainly that I do not have any yellow armies and also my main Space Marine army is the Crimson Fists so their founding fathers so to speak would be perfect. The problem is that yellow isn't easy to paint. At least that was my initial thought. I'm by no means a great painter but I can paint table top standard quality pretty well and in painting this miniature I didn't find painting yellow to be the struggle I expected. This is mainly down to the awesome Averland Sunset from GW and this fantastic tutorial: Painting Yellow by Dave Taylor. The different between my model and Dave's is that I opted for a black undercoat as I wanted a darker yellow. I also used Bleached Bone instead of Pale Sand but apart from that all the other colours I used were the same as on Dave's tutorial.

To give the model a more realistic feel I wanted to add some battle damage. Again I'm no expert in this field but found another great tutorial for painting damage. The painting battle damage by Brush Brothers really gave me a very good step by step guide to follow for realistic battle damage. They also have as part of that tutorial a way for painting yellow. I'm of course no where near as good as the painters in the above two articles but I aspire t one day reach their level and tutorials like this are a great way for painters to reach a higher level. I may not be at their standard yet but practice will make perfect. It's my aim over the next few months to find some miniature painters to share tips and tutorials on this very blog.

So anyway on to the miniature. I used the MKIII Space Marine parts from Forgeworld and also the shield from the Space Marine Boarding kit and a Pre Heresy boltgun. The Mark II and Mark III armour really represents the Imperial Fists well in my opinion. That whole siege image fits well with these armour types so they will feature heavily in my army. The boarding shield again adds to this image.

Pre Heresy Imperial Fist